Red Rocks and Calico Basin

WOW! I have been to some cool places on the SoCal climbing circuit, but no where like Red Rocks Nevada State Park. This place is amazing, off the chain, totally epic, and really very nice. Red Rocks is a destination climbing place for the nation, and it totally lives up to it. It is so beautiful!

Red Rocks on the Loop

Let me back up and start at the beginning though. We decided to go camping and climbing over Halloween Weekend, and stayed at the Red Rocks Canyon Campground. The campground was alright, it had a lot of construction going on. The weather was cold and extremely windy! It knocked over other some people’s tents, and almost blew down mine. Desert wind definitely made it hard to sleep, plus staying out for Halloween night fun in Vegas made us sluggish in the morning.

We took naps when we weren’t climbing. I took this from from the top of a Conundrum climb.

This was probably why we went the wrong way out of the parking lot for Kraft Mountain, by Calico Basin. We went west out of the parking lot instead of north, along a much broader path, which is why we thought it was the path to the crag. But it was sort of better this way because it had rained the night before, so the sandstone had to dry up. Technically you aren’t supposed to climb on sandstone for 48 hours after a rain, but this had been a very light rain, and other climbers were up on routes. We decided that it would be fine once the sun was out for a while. Also, we found a cool bouldering project that looked like it would have been a lot of fun if we had had a crash pad.

Just laying around, this awesome Bouldering project.

Eventually we looked at a compass, righted ourselves, walked back to the beginning of the trail, and got onto Kraft Mountain. The trail for this is significantly smaller, edged by little rocks, and goes through a cool field of boulders. After hiking for maybe ten or fifteen minutes, you round the edge of the mountain, and you go by the Monkey Bars boulder, you are in Gateway Canyon. This is where we spent our day!

First we went to the Conundrum Crag and blew through three climbs there: Family Affair, Wayward son, and Family Circus. All three of these are very easy, doable climbs. They all have really good, very positive hands and feet. My brother, Alex, lead all of the climbs for the day, while I cleaned every route. This meant that we were a faster team, and could get through more climbs.

Team work in climbing. I am tying in to clean the route. 

Family Affair (5.8) had a little bit of a pumpy, over-hung start. The hands are all there, but you are leaning back for the first two moves. If you trust your feet, and it isn’t hard on this climb, then anyone can push through the first couple of moves to the easier top part. It is the right-most climb of this wall. The rock here is very friendly on your hands, but also very sticky for your feet. It is the perfect combination!

Family Affair, right after the hard bit.

Because we were sharing the crag with a couple of other climbers, we skipped the middle route and went to the far left route of Wayward Son (5.9).

Ken Lee on Wayward Son

This was another simple climb, a little more spare for awesome juggy hand holds. Honestly though, that makes a climb a little more interesting because you have to think a little more about where you are going. Part of climbing is the problem solving aspect to it, so when there are so many hold that it becomes like climbing a rock ladder, it is a little less interesting. Wayward Son was good though, a couple of interesting, harder moves throughout. The interesting thing is, on the surface of the rock, there are all these dark spots, like the sun glazed the surface of the rock.

Spots on rocks, it sounds almost like Dr. Seuss. But it made for fun climbing!

These spots can be a boon and blah for when you are climbing, because sometimes something will look like more than it is, looks like it has more depth than it really does. But sometimes they are actually a little ridge out that you can stand or balance on. Mostly though, there are really obvious really sure fingers and toes.

Family Circus (5.9) was the last climb we did for this wall, and again, just classic rock. No pain on your fingers, and plenty of friction. I found this to be a lot like Family Affair in that it is a little tougher in the start then much easier. The lesson I am learning is that climbing is a lot about trusting your hands and feet. My only problem was, the thing I remember most about this climb was how much my feet hurt from my new shoes! I had just bought new Sharma super aggressive shoes for this trip, thinking they could give me an edge. Unfortunately, I was not ready for just how intense these shoes were going to be, and after climbing for a while they really really pinched! I couldn’t wear them the whole day, but they did make a difference in how sure of the rocks I was.

Look at that high foot! That is trust.

After these three climbs, we decided we wanted to try and find Sport Chimney and see what else was around there on the Sunny and Steep Crag. That meant that we had to hike through the canyon, and it was beautiful! Full of interesting rock formations and colors.

Stratigraphy! Stripes in the rocks make them even more beautiful.

This hike by itself would have been worth the trip, it is so pretty. Mark, my husband, loved it, and so did I.

Rings in the Rocks, how cool is that?

Eventually we got to the Sunny and Steep wall, and it was all it was cracked up to be! (haha, cracked, for a crack climb? Ahhh, funny.) There were a bunch of different groups already there, but no one was on the Sport Chimney (5.8) climb, so we jumped in!

Crack! (don’t laugh)

I have never done a sustained chimney before this, it was super cool, but a little scary. Alex lead it, and I have no idea how. There were some run out bolts, and some very weird moves. But he did!

Look at that move! So awesome!

And I was up after him, in my old Boreal Jokers. Chimney climbs are cool because you are also using your back to push you into the the rock.

It’s like every escape movie where people press up against both sides of an air duct. It really works, and makes it possible for some strong moves.

Down foot, to transfer to the last bit of vertical climb.

Just don’t wear any clothes you don’t want torn but, because with all the pressing and wiggling, it gets rough.

The last climb of the day was Working for Peanuts, the climb just to the right of Mr Choads Wild Ride (5.11b). I watched a lead climber ascend this and it looked like so much fun. I would totally come back for that climb. While I was belaying for Alex on Working for Peanuts, I joked around with the other belayer (on MCWR) about how crass some of the names of climbs are. Some people are working to class things up, but I personally think its fine, I just want more girls to bolt so women get some crazy names too. The one we came up with, for a really hard climb would be “Seven Days of Blood”. Maybe it is better to have more mild names though, they just aren’t as weird. Chimney Sport is a very accurate name, but it doesn’t give any feeling to what you’re doing.

Working for Peanuts (5.9+) was interesting, a spicy start along a little crack, smearing your feet to get up to the first couple of good hand holds.

Alex leading Working for Peanuts

There are a couple of really fun bits in the middle too, where you have to scrape your way up, shuffle your feet around, and push forward.

Working the seam in the rock.

The rock quality again, was just classic, super clean, nice on your hands and grippy on your feet. I loved it.

After cleaning Working for Peanuts, we packed up and started the trek back the way we came- from the mouth of Gateway Canyon, back through the boulder field. It was just as beautiful leaving as it was hiking in. By the time we got back to the car the sun was setting, and the climbers I had been chatting with at Working for Peanuts came up to the parking lot at the same time, even though they had left considerably later. They had gone the shorter route to the west and then south. The path wasn’t as good, more scrub brush and weeds, but the way was considerably shorter.

Red Rocks from the scenic loop.

I really enjoyed Calico Basin and Kraft mountain of Red Rocks. I really want to come back and try Red Rocks proper, which is on a different mountain. But these climbs held up to the expectation of world class climbing.

Echo Cliffs

I love Echo Cliffs! It is one of my favorite places to climb, and has my favorite outdoor climb that I have completed. … It’s just, getting there is kind of intense. It’s located out in the middle of the Santa Monica Mountains, not an easy drive in to mountains, like Malibu Creek State Park, but way out into the mountains proper. Part of the drive is on really really old road that has a million switchbacks and long curves. Everyone always has fun driving it! Just, please watch out for the millions of bikers that also use the roads.

Once you park, you hike up the Mishe Mokwa Trail which is beautiful, but really long and fairly demanding. Be ready to work those glutes! The trail is always obvious though, you never have to really worry about getting off trail or lost. One of my favorite things is that there is fair shade for the hike, and this might sound weird, but it always smells so good! And the views are knock out for rolling California countryside. The trail is fairly well peopled by other climbers, and hikers just out to enjoy the views (mentioned previously).

After about 30 minutes of hiking, there is a split in the trail, with the main trail heading to some picnic tables and more views. I have never actually taken this trail, but instead follow a creek or natural spillway straight down the side of the mountain. This is extremely taxing both physically and mentally, because if you fall on this bit, you will roll down the mountain. I have never actually heard of this happening, it is just what it feels like. I once saw some climbers attempt to take some dogs on this part of the trail, and the dogs could not climb down it. Oh! that also reminds me, these dogs also accidentally got overheated, please be sure to bring lots of water for yourself and animal companions!

Once you get down the dry waterfall, you are basically at the Grotto, the first climbing area of Echo Cliffs. This area is one of the best, but it’s also the most used. And everyone uses it because:

1 You just hiked 45 minutes and you’re a little tired, and the next wall is another hike away

2 It is almost always hot out and the area is shaded by big trees

3 Most of the rocks are also shaded

4 More shade

(relaxing in the shade)

Shade is so important because Echo is big and beautiful, but a lot of it is north facing, so there is not always shade to relax in. Many of the climbs are right in the sun and bake all day long, so most people chase the shade throughout the day. In the Grotto you have to be careful though, the rocks on the left of the area are off limits! But there are plenty of fun climbs on the right side. We completed 2 in the Grotto- Superfly, and Lowrider.

SuperFly 5.10a is amazing… to follow. First you scramble up a big flake of rock, which is the best area to belay from (especially if you’re using a grigri) then just jump onto the rock. To start out with, I was not leading this route.

Ken Lee was, but for reasons, he had hurt his back… and it spasmed and he fell, right on the third bolt, before he clipped in. The third bolt is really run out; that from the second clip, you match your feet to the second bolt, then take another big step up, then you can almost reach the third bolt.

(Shout out to my buddy Dennis for catching Ken Lee falling!)

So Ken fell like 25 feet! It was really scary! I think that makes it a factor two fall, because we basically equalized. NO GOOD! NO ME GUSTA! Then it was up to me to lead this route.

I have actually climbed at Echo Cliffs before, and done this climb before, without falling… on top rope. After watching Ken fall, I was pretty nervous myself, but the climb is actually really really fun- all the holds are pretty obvious, good crimps and plenty of little feet ledges. One of the things I like about the Grotto area is that the rock is a lot more compact than other areas, which are more conglomerate. Superfly offers a lot of flakes and finger holds, with a couple of friendly jugs here and there. There is one area — right before that third clip — that only has flat finger ledges (less than two knuckles deep, flat) but if you have some guts, you can pick up your left foot and put it in a really good pocket- previously a really good hold. Then you can stand up and try and reach for other holds. Once my brother told me “you just have to turn your fingers to stone and trust them”, and I think that this climb is a good place to learn that. It’s really about confidence.

Lowrider (5.10b) was to the left of this, just behind one of the trees. It was only maybe 45 ft tall, up to a ledge then two open shuts. It’s just to the right of Stinger, and three bolts to two open-shuts. The way that I climbed it made it seem easy, almost too easy, except for one move that is a spread between two finger pockets. Maybe I used to wrong beta though -I went up the crack of Stinger to the first bolt, then traversed to the right. You grab the two finger pockets, move up your feet, grab the ledge, and the climb is over! By finger pockets I mean two little holes that you can really only use two fingers on, and for this you were spreading your arms out so they are clinging to the sides of the holds. This is the only crux of the climb though, just one move, and it’s a really short climb. Not my favorite.

After we finished these two, our group split up and half the group decided that was it for the day, and headed out. But the rest of us decided to go check out Guillotine on the Alcove wall, and the Easy Street face.

The hike around to the Alcove is also challenging, another place that it would be hard to bring dogs or very small children. Although, once when we were at Guillotine, there were some people hiking around, one group with a smallish woman with a gigantic backpack. I looked at her and thought “What, is she camping here? Did she bring a tent or something? What is going on?!” I did not say these sentiments outloud, that would be rude. But we waved as the group passed us by, and out of the back of the backpack were two little dogs! Tiny little things! So cute! Right after the belay area, the woman took off the backpack and was like “ok you two, you are too heavy!” and the little dogs crouched down in the backpack like “No! We don’t want to walk! It’s hot!” I about died trying to hold in laughter, and I still laugh whenever I think about it. Spoiled little doggies!

Unfortunately though, this trip we did not climb on the Alcove, I was not confident enough to lead my favorite climb — Guillotine (5.10b) without having someone be able to go get a quick draw if I could not finish the climb. In their defence, Ken Lee’s back was all screwed up, plus monster fall, and Mattieu had just run a trail race before coming climbing! So onward to Easy Street.

I like Easy Street because all the climbs are super long. As the name suggests all the routes are pretty easy, but it’s cool because they’re still worth the effort. The bolts are a little run out again, but the climb we did on this day was only a little harder than climbing a ladder, if the ladder was 80 feet tall and had really weird handles. The only problem is that this is the crumbliest part of Echo Cliffs, so wearing a helmet is a good idea, and be sure to watch out for pebbles and rocks coming down.

(Dennis grabbed this of Matthieu as they were hiking out, Matthieu is being lowered from leading the climb)

We did the first pitch of Head Wound (5.7), it used up almost all of our 60m rope. There are parts that are interesting, tons of good holds all over the place, you can get creative if you want. I went for speed and completed it in maybe 5 or 7 minutes. There is one part that you are basically scrambling forward, this is a big area for loose rocks though, so be careful! Also, there is a lot of drag on the rope, but I don’t think it is too big of a risk… just because I don’t think there are many places to fall. Fun, good exercise, and a hell of a view makes this climb totally worth it.

After that we were all pretty tired, and had to hike ALL THE WAY BACK!! The distance from The Grotto to Easy Street is in and of itself maybe 20 or 30 minutes of scrambles and hills for hiking, then back up the waterfall, then back up the Mishe Mokwa trail. … but all that and this place is still one of my favorites. There are just so many climbs! And not too many people, just enough to feel like if you fell to your death someone would notice. Plus the view is really really something else.